Kawkaban A city embracing the clouds and history [Archives:2002/37/Culture]

YEMENIA QUARTERLY MAGAZINE
ISSUE NO. 5, AUG. 2002
One of the things that distinguishes many Yemeni cities, is their storied history, which is still evident today through their names and ruins. For this history is one of an ancient civilization which along with others, spread through the entire world, while these cities remained as standing witnesses to this civilization origin.
Kawkaban is a city that contains important features of this history of Yemeni civilization.
It’s name, according to Al Hamadani’s “History of Yemeni Tribes”, is derived from Kawkaban Bin Sibal of Bin Himyar, which is consistent with the Yemeni traditions of naming most areas after the names of kings and their children.
A legend also mentions that the name Kawkaban (which in Arabic literally means two stars) might have been derived from a story regarding the city’s location, at the top of a mountain. On this mountain there were two great castles each containing a big jewel to absorb lightning shocks which threatened the castles due their height. These jewels had such magnificent light that they shone very brightly, specially near sunset and allowed travelers to be guided by their light and to schedule appointments “when the two stars appear we meet”, thus the name of the city.
Location
Kawkaban is a town located in the Province of Al-Mahweet, northwest of the capital Sana’a, on the top of Al-Dila’s mountain or Thooikhar, as it was known in the past. Approximately 2800 meters above sea level, it overlooks the city of Shibam, the center of Al-Kaderea, and to its south Al-Na’em valley in Al-Ahjar area. Its height allows Kawkaban to embrace the clouds, and allows the visitors to view scenes of great beauty and splendor in every direction which are owed to the creativity of the Yemeni people who were able to build such a city in such a location.
Brief History
Although the exact date of the city’s origin is not precisely determined, the existing ruins and artifacts give us a clue of its ancient nature. Recorded history goes back to 950 years and has Kawkaban as storage place for grains. At the time of the Hemyarees State (and subsequent Islamic ones), the city was built by the Imam Abdullah Bin Hamzah whose mosque is still standing to date. This Imam was notorious for his piety and science and attracted many of his those who wished to be around him and obtain his blessings to a degree that after his death, his body was moved to more than a location surrounding Kawkaban until it settled in Thafar village.
Kawkaban’s role through historical conflicts has many aspects, not least of which is its rebellion against Ottoman rule which occupied it at one point and made it an Ottoman province. However the struggle of its citizens enabled it to achieve its independence and autonomy as a small state called (Alkawakabania County) away from the central authority in Sana’a.
Architecture
Kawkaban’s houses, buildings and castles are spread over a three-kilometer area on the Al-Dila’ mountain. The use of sedimentary stone called Al-Amsh in its buildings gives it a reddish hue and distinguishes all the buildings in that area as well. The city is surrounded by an old wall which has only one entrance called Bab Al Hadeed, or the iron entrance.
However, a newly built road enables better access to Kawkaban which stretches for six kilometers uphill coming from the Shibam center. Previously, Kawkaban was reached by the “Aqaba”, or a series of rocky stairways in a way that cutting through the mountainside Overall, the architectural style prevalent is unique and ancient, from the type of Amsh stone used to the two stairs leading to every house, where men and women enter separately, to the separate baths in houses, where one is specifically for prayers and worshipping purposes. Each ceiling has an opening, which allows sunlight to warm up the usually cold temperatures throughout the year. One can also find a series of small dams erected specifically for regulating water supplies for the city. Throughout various periods of time, the number of those dams reached to about seven.
Tourist Features
In addition to its unique location and distinct buildings, Kawkaban is surrounded by some of the most beautiful landscape around where tourists enjoy. Adding to the aura is the fact that these ruins are still in their pristine condition and have been untouched by the new buildings that exist there now. In addition to its historical wall where one finds a castle and its entrance built by the Ottomans, there is Mansour Mosque, built by the Imam Hamza ten centuries ago where one finds the body of the Imam Shams Al Deen Bin Sharaf Al Deen. One can also find there the dome of Kawkaban, which actually links Shibam to Kawkaban.
At any rate, this city has continued to be tourist attractions and has witnessed a continuous flow of visitors since eighties. This has prompted the building of some of private venture including two hotels and lounges which arrange the quiet enjoyment of the scenery, and allows the visitors to study the different aspects of the area from natural plants and wildlife to the ornithology to the types of rock that exist in that area.
Perhaps the most welcoming aspect are the deeply-rooted Arab values of its citizens such as hospitality, generosity, and respect for visitors. The reason is that they love their city and its visitors and continuously praise its qualities, especially that most its citizens are extremely well- educated in history, literature, religion. Perhaps you will hear them recite the words of one their poets:
In the mountain whose citizens never will wear a frown,
The beautiful Kawkaban resembles a bride in her gown.


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