Naksh:the business of many women in Yemen [Archives:2006/925/Last Page]
March 2 2006
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Most Yemeni and Gulf women use decorative art for many occasions. A bride is supposed to “tentakesh” that is, have either henna or naksh “khethab” done. It is similar to “Yawm Al-Naksh” in Sana'a, Taiz, Aden and other cities but with some key differences. The bride is veiled during the naksh party, so she will look prettier on the wedding night because nobody has seen her.
Khethab
Khethab, the material decorators use to decorate, is a black stone with a particular smell. There are women who cook khethab, spending time doing it with great effort until it looks like stone. The decorator breaks the stone into small pieces and then grinds them into powder. Afterward, she soaks them in a few drops of water for a while, which makes it soft so it is easily applied with a brush. Some decorators add a little salt or sugar to make it more fixed for a longer time. Khethab usually stays on the skin for two to three weeks.
The Munakeshah
A Munakeshah is the professional decorator. Only women work with naksh, as it is a female job. Men are not allowed to work in this art because women's bodies are decorated and Islamic religion and customs do not allow men to decorate women. Although there are no training centers in Yemen specialized in this decorative art, a few talented women may enter this field. They must learn the art and professionally train themselves.
Decorating occasions
Naksh actually is used for many Yemeni occasions; however, the main naksh occasion is the wedding cerebration, as Yemeni brides must be painted with naksh. There is a special day to decorate the bride called, “Yawm Al-Naksh,” during which women celebrate and hold a big party at the bride's house.
The Munakeshah comes early in the morning and begins decorating the bride. Afterward, she may start to decorate the bride's relatives and friends. A Munakeshah often spends more than two hours decorating the bride. Afrah, a Munakeshah, says, “The bride's naksh is the most difficult one I must care for. I decorate only two or three brides a day, as it requires more effort and time.”
In the past, only brides and married women could be decorated as a traditional habit. Nowadays, any woman, whether married or single, who wants to be decorated can go to a Munakeshah. Furthermore, if some families have a wedding, the bride's relatives and friends must be decorated to be distinguished from other guests.
Often, a woman who has had a baby goes to a Munakeshah to decorate her hands and arms after giving birth. Also, engaged girls like to prepare for their engagement party with naksh, while others use naksh to celebrate their graduation. A Munakeshah often is busy decorating girls during Eid days as well. “Sometimes I spend all night decorating all the girls of my neighbors,” Afrah says.
Places to decorate
Generally, women decorate their hands, arms, feet and legs, but in some cities, women also decorate their face and chest, especially brides and married women. According to traditional custom, it is forbidden for unmarried women to decorate their legs or face, as unmarried women should not decorate anything but their hands and arms. Only married women who go to a Munakeshah to satisfy their husbands are allowed to have their legs and face painted.
Types of decorative arts
There are many kinds of decoration, depending on the particular country. For example, every Yemeni city has its own decorative style. Sana'a decoration differs from Swgatrah decoration. Al-Godimi is one of the oldest types of decoration in Sana'a, with its own design of lines of dots that make hands more attractive.
New generations have come up with new decorations and decorators create designs for themselves. Every decorator makes her own design that it looks different from other decorators' styles. Al-Hadrami style is a Hadramout design that looks very different from others and requires more effort and focus. Also, there is Hohahha design, similar to Al-Hadrami design but with minor differences.
The price of decoration
Decorators generally estimate the cost of decoration. There is no fixed price for the decorative process, as many conditions and factors may affect the price. Decorating a bride is the most expensive because the decorator must spend a longer time decorating her than anybody else. A customer's status also plays a role in estimating the price, as a rich customer pays more than a poor one.
When asked how much they earn per month, one decorator replied, “I earn more money during occasion months. In the summer, I decorate more than four brides a day and many girls who have parties, so I earn about 30,000 riyals a day. I don't ask for much money, but I consider the customer's economic state.”
Ahlam, a very skillful decorator, said, “I have decorated for a long time, so I have enough experience to decorate skillfully. Most of my customers are rich and they don't care about the money if the decoration is wonderful. I charge YR 20,000 for a bride and I request YR 5,000 from other women to decorate only the hands. The price may be more or less.” Skilled decorators charge higher prices than decorators still in training.
Eman, another decorator, said, “For me, I make a fixed price for customers. I don't care whether she is rich or poor.” When asked about the maximum price that she charges, she said, “I charge YR 7,000 for a bride, YR 3,000 for married women and approximately YR 500 to 1,000 for adult girls.”
Munakeshah are businesswomen
Munakeshah in Yemen are rich because there are only a few women who can decorate. Some girls consider the decorative art a main career for them, preferring to quit their school and university studies to be free to do it. They believe they can earn more money and get a good income by working as decorators rather than obtain a university certificate and then looking for a job opportunity. Salwa, a professional decorator, says, “I studied up to grade six and now I work at home as a decorator. Women come to my house, so I don't need go out and search for a job.”
Many women become rich after a few months of working in this field. Some participate in small projects; others buy gardens and build residential buildings projects, while others open beauty centers, etc.
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