Ramadan in Taiz [Archives:2006/984/Reportage]

Ansam Al-Saqqaf
The collective fasting by Muslims in countries around the world indicates Islam's vigor and majesty.

Ramadan in Taiz is no different than Ramadan in Aden, Damascus, Saudi Arabia or Iran because there's a common factor and one conduct by all. Everywhere in the Arab and Islamic world, the month-long annual guest is welcomed warmly.

However, Ramadan has a special flavor in Taiz that's different from all other Yemeni cities. Nice weather and residents, as well as varied public rituals, prompt many to prefer spending Ramadan there.

Ramadan's coming creates a change within individuals, who receive it with special cheerfulness and joy. Further, their relations with each other improve and enemies reconcile as they exchange greetings and shake hands with friends and neighbors.

Anticipation of Ramadan new moon (Hilal) and mawlid Toward the end of the month of Sha'ban, both young and old patiently await the advent of Ramadan signaled by the new moon (Hilal). In many areas of Taiz, residents receive it with welcoming hymns mostly associated with Sufi spiritual and mystic poetry.

During Ramadan, a chanter beating a tambourine will recite a poem with attendees repeating after him. Most poems chanted are those of famed Sufi poet, Ahmed Bin Al-Wan.

Ramadan cannon

Although everyone knows the time of iftar (breaking the fast) – announced via mass media, radio, television and mosques – Yemenis still consider Al-Qaherah Fort's iftar cannon one of the most distinguished features of Ramadan. Prior to Iftar, people gather in mosques or on the streets awaiting the cannon's sound.

Breaking the fast begins with eating something light – usually a date and some water – and then performing the maghrib prayer. Later, shafout (a meal of lahoh containing corn and milk) is served.

Soup (shorbah) made from wheat and lentils is an important part of the iftar meal and is made differently from one place to another.

The main meal, consisting of various types of foods, will be postponed until completing the prayer. During Ramadan, housewives exert great effort to serve a large number of dishes, including sambousah and bagih. Following dinner, desserts such as rowani are served.

Mosques and collective iftar

Unlike other times of the year, mosques are filled with men and women racing to perform their prayers during Ramadan. Mosques become so crowded to the point that one can't find a place to perform prayers, particularly in Taiz's eastern parts (Al-Mudhafar).

In Ramadan, those overwhelmed by business and other earthly worries can find ample opportunities to indulge in spiritual activities, do more prayers and recite the Qur'an. Thus, Ramadan is a chance to return to Allah.

When people – particularly youths – go to mosques for iftar, they take with them all iftar requirements and sit in a circle, mostly in the countryside. In cities, charitable societies are responsible for providing iftar and dinner for those belonging to marginalized groups, including workers, the poor and the akhdam.

Daytime lack of movement

During the first part of the day, except for students and employees, streets are free of pedestrians and vehicles. Later in the day, residents venture out to shop, filling vegetable and food markets.

Al-Shanini's markets

Following the aser prayer, Al-Shanini's markets – famous for Ramadan foods like dates, sambousah, zalabiah and rowani – are filled with shoppers coming to buy such Ramadan favorites.

Qat

However, the one bad aspect about Ramadan in Taiz is qat. Most people go to buy qat toward the end of the day and before the iftar, thus causing problems, accidents and traffic jams due to hastiness.

Nighttime in Taiz

Most motion in Taiz and crowds occur at night, particularly in public markets and cafes. Al-Shaabi Cafe – famous for its special tea – in Al-Bab Al-Kabeer, remains one of the distinguished features related to Ramadan, with youth overcrowding the cafe after the Aysha prayer.

Most residents spend their time chewing qat and some flock to Taiz streets, particularly 26th Street (also known as Love Street). Others go to mosques to perform night prayers (traweih) or attend Allah glorification meetings and fiqh courses.

Women

Contrary to other months, women in Taiz don't go out except for important things like obtaining the requirements of home. Additionally, during Ramadan, women pay no attention to appearance or adornment.
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